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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.